Saturday, October 8, 2011

How to Choose the Right Brushes: Shadow

This begins a 3 part series on makeup brushes. This one is about Shadow Brushes, then we’ll talk Liners/Eyebrows, and finally Face (foundation and Blush). 

I think back to the days when I used the sponge applicators that came with the eye shadow, and I cringe. Now days, if I purchase an eye shadow product with a sponge tip applicator, I toss it immediately. The sponges pick up and pack on too much color and don’t leave much room for blending.  I’ve come quite a long way in my shadowing journey.

The type of brush you need completely depends on what kind of look you’re going for. 

For example,

I use a wide flat brush for almost all my looks.  This brush lays down a base color and is also great for lightly packing in some highlight color on the browbone and inner eye without getting too thick.  This versatile brush can also be used to lay down color close to the lashline on either the top or bottom of the eye, or to apply an emollient based shade.
                                                      
The one I use is the MAC 242.  Most makeup brands will have a version of this one.

My favorite (and you can read a blog all about why it’s my favorite here) is the fluffy domed brush.  This one is perfect for the base of your crease color as well as all over color.  It allows you to create light layers of color that blend out into perfection.  It is also a lovely blending brush for when your eyes are pretty much done but need some extra blending with the highlight colors or to smoke out a color that is too dark.
                                                          
MAC 224 Tapered Blending Brush

Next is the stiff domed brush.  Great for the crease color .  This one packs on a little more color to a more concentrated area than its fluffy counterpart, so it also works for that outer corner V you may have been trying for.  Also an excellent all over blending tool as well as a great stippling tool. 
                                                                                                                


 
The small flat brush is going to be your go-to brush for any heavy color needs.  If you want to pack on an intense color, this is the brush you would use.  For example, you may want just an all over intense blue color that fades up into the crease.  Use your small flat brush to pack on that color from the lashline up to the crease. THEN take the fluffy domed brush or the stiff domed brush, pick up some shadow that matches your skin tone and start blending the blue up into the crease and above it.  This would fade the packed on color at the top and leave the intense, more concentrated color at the bottom.  This type of brush can also be used for emollient or cream based shadows that you want to spread all over the lid. (like a paint pot)
                                                                                                               
I use an old Estee Lauder one that I bought a few years ago, but they don't seem to have it available anymore.  The MAC 228 Mini Shader would be a nice alternative. 


Pencil brush is what you need for an intense smoky eye look.  Use this pointy stiff brush to get your darker color up close to your lash line on both the top and the bottom. A pencil brush can also be used to soften a harsh liner or even make a more dramatic outer V with a darker color. 
                                                       

These are the main brushes I use. Tons more are available, and I own so many others, but I always end up coming back to these 5.  I think even with just 2 of these you could create almost any look. 

There are 3 main things to remember when using brushes for eye makeup:

1. Always tap the excess shadow off the brush before application. Yes, this gives you
    less color up front, but you should always build in light layers to your desired level of
    drama.  This will also help to prevent “fallout,” which is shadow particles under the
    eye.

2. Get a good anti-bacterial brush spray.  These are inexpensive, and they help to clean
    the color off so that you can use the same brush for 2 very different colors in one look. 
    Just spray it either on the tip of the brush or on a Kleenex and gently swipe until the
    color is gone. This one from Sephora is reasonably priced and has a nice smell, too!

3. Wash your brushes with baby shampoo. Don’t use soap or your regular shampoo. 
    These can cause the brushes to dry out and the bristles to break.  Also remember to let
    them dry on a flat surface.  Putting them top-up while they dry can let the water sink
    back into the brush and damage the bristles underneath.

Remember, makeup brushes are an investment. I love MAC brushes, but you may be able to find some cheaper alternatives at different places.  If I'm handing out my humble opinion here, I would tell you don't waste your money on Sephora brushes.  They really aren't much cheaper than the MAC brushes and I've found that the quality just isn't the same.  My collection came over a number of years, and I've always tried to learn one brush before rushing out to buy a new one.  They also make great birthday and holiday gifts!! (so do sephora gift cards!!) 

Stay tuned for the next 2 blogs on makeup brushes, then a series on creating an easy smoky eye look!